Internationale groepsreis Nanda Devi & Milam Glacier

Superb trek in spectacular, remote mountains

We felt privileged to visit this remote area, hardly touched by European visitors in recent decades. This once flourishing area has been depopulating gradually since the closure of the border with Tibet in 1962, and many of the beautiful old villages are virtually derelict. The scenery is stunning, spectacular, awe-inspiring and many other superlatives, and I'd recommend it highly to anyone who enjoys walking in remote mountain terrain. Thanks, Exodus, for giving us this opportunity

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

I loved being woken up by the chanting from the temple up the hill at Milam - best alarm clock ever! The donkey bells were also quite an effective wake-up call - much needed as we were sleeping so soundly. Reaching the top of the Nain Singh pass was pretty spectacular. Seeing Nanda Devi East from the toilet tent, at dawn, with the sun just hitting the peak.

What did you think of your group leader?

We were lucky to have three leaders - the legendary Valerie Parkinson, Rajeev and Dhruv Joshi. All were absolutely superb and contributed in different ways to make the trek one of the best and most enjoyable we have done. The whole team was brilliant - Johnny, the cook, was an inspiration and he and his helpers produced varied and interesting three course meals, three times a day. His cakes in particular were fantastic. The pony men, and their ponies, were brilliant. It was always great to see the lunch team, as we usually needed a rest by then, but they all contributed in many different ways to the smooth running of the trek for us all. Thanks to all for a superb team effort.

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

Take plenty of camera batteries - there's a lot you'll want to photograph. Read the trip notes and follow the advice on equipment, especially re walking poles - there's a few steep descents! Don't take too many clothes on the trek itself - we had clothes laundered at Munsiyari, and picked them up on our return. Do take warm clothes - it got quite nippy at night at the higher camps

Is there anything else you would like to add?

The journey to and from the trailhead was very interesting, and gave a great insight into life in 'real' India, well away from the usual tourist hotspots. We saw very few Europeans from leaving Delhi to our return. This is a great trek - don't hesitate.

Great trekking in wonderful scenery

Excellent trip which exceeded our expectations. Much of the walking is on open terrain with only a few, predominantly empty, settlements interrupting the vast expanse of the landscape leading to a great feeling of isolation and timelessness. Weather permitting, the views of the snow capped mountains which surround Milam Glacier -Rishi Parvati, Hardeol, Trishuli- and those of the peaks of the Nanda Devi range itself are spectacular and of a similar class to those of Nepal. It is a long two days journeying to the start of the trek at Munsiyari but the scenery from the minibus is lovely and the rail journey to Kathgodam we found an interesting experience - the food and on board service is good. The evening spent at Almora allows time to visit the Nanda Devi temple complex. The first two and last two days of the trek are the hardest involving ascent/descent but in between the walking is relatively straightforward. We felt the trip grading of 4 to be appropriate (but note that this now appears to have changed to 5.)

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

Nothing can ever beat snow capped mountains!! So first highlight was seeing the full range of Panchchulli at sunrise from Munsiyari at the start of the trip. You realised you were going to see big mountains! The second was the view of Hardeol and the Milam glacier as you came into the campsite at Milam, replicated the next day on the walk to the view point. The third was the first completely clear view of Nanda Devi East/Main from the road as we trekked to Ganaghar. We were so lucky with the weather!

What did you think of your group leader?

Valerie Parkinson was good fun to trek with. Her tales of treking in India/Nepal were fascinating. Our guide Dhruve and our assistant leader Rajiv were also very good. Dhruve established a good pace for the trek and Rajiv was always really helpful. The rest of the team were also excellent - Johnny's cooking was exemplary.

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

On the practical side here's the list:- (1) Take snacks/fruit pastilles just to break the trek on long days (2) Solar panels can struggle if variable sun/direction of sun awkward (3) Strapping tape useful in case of injury (4) Light to hang on tent as well as head torch (5) Umbrella useful as showers can be sharp, heavy but short (6) Water is boiled so we used very few purification tablets (7) Swimming costume for hotel in Delhi (8) We had wifi in Almora but none in Musiyari. No data signal on trek (9) We did extension to Amritsar-good. Mrs Bhandari's guesthouse was brilliant.(10) We had it warm and dry but cold at night. Other trekkers we met had it wet and misty so need to cover all weather scenarios.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

Just to say again that its a very good trek if you like remote places. Tents were good.

Nanda Devi and Milam Glacier

Having completed a number of big treks with Exodus, this was different. As well as being challenging in a remote and extremely scenic area, there was the added bonus of local culture in an interesting historical and geopolitical context. Once a thriving trade route between Tibet and India, many of the villages are sadly in decline with one or two deserted altogether. This added to an atmosphere of remoteness, as did the almost total lack of other trekkers. It was a privilege to be there and to be led and looked after by such a superb team.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

Being so close to the 6-7,000 metre+ peaks of the Nanda Devi range in the warmth of the sun in a cloudless sky. Observing 20-30 Himalayan Griffon Vultures circling both above and below us at close range.

What did you think of your group leader?

Valerie is second to none! The two local assistant leaders, Rajeev and Dhruv, were indispensable and always there to help when needed on the occasional tricky trails.

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

Be aware that this is a challenging trek with lots of ups and downs on a daily basis, so you need to be physically and mentally prepared. Make sure your knees are up to it!! There are a couple of very long days too, travelling to and from the trailhead. The route from Almora to Munsiyari is very windy as well as long, and this might challenge anyone with a tendency to travel sickness!

Is there anything else you would like to add?

We were amazingly well fed on trek by Johnny and the kitchen team. We don't know how they do it! Huge thanks to them for the sheer quality, quantity and variety of dishes, which kept us healthy and full of energy throughout!

Nanda Devi

If you like trekking in remote areas and don't want to meet any other tourists then this trip is for you. The scenery, weather permitting, is breath taking. We were so lucky. Brilliant views of Tirsuli and Nanda Devi mountains highlighted the trip. You do have to be resilient with the travelling, but once you are walking, the views make up for the sore bottom inflicted on you from the three days on transport. We did not meet any Europeans. Only Himalayan Vultures and goats/sheep for company. The gorge walking was spectacular with exciting narrow paths to negotiate. An excellent trip for a mountain escape.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

Views of Tirsuli and Nanda devi.

What did you think of your group leader?

Valerie Parkinson as usual was fantastic. Her experience and knowledge of India is incredible. She is so interesting to listen to and provides an brilliant insight in to India's back ground and way of life

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

You need to be prepared for typical mountain weather. Hot sunny mornings and showery afternoons. If you like snacks then bring them with you as there are no shops or teas houses selling any European food.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

Nanda Devi and Milam Glacier

This was a fantastic trek, very remote and isolated in most cases. Typical Himalayan rivers, lots of birds, views, glaciers and we were fortunate to see Nanda Devi in all its glory. Good camping, food was excellent and we had great support staff, including 22 ponies.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

Enjoying the whole experience with like minded individuals. Loads of griffin vultures.

What did you think of your group leader?

Valerie Parkinson was great as usual in all aspects.

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

Make sure you are fit to start with, some big ascents in the first few days.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

Nanda Devi - and getting there and back

On paper this looked like a potentially tedious trek up a long valley to look at some mountains and then back down the valley again. But the reality was very different. The trek in was wonderful with flocks of griffon vultures soaring close by us on thermals as we crossed the Nain Singh Pass, and then dropped down through mixed forest to the magnificent deeply-cut Gori Ganga river valley with tantalising glimpses of snow-capped peaks as we climbed up past occasional deserted villages towards Milam. From Milam the walk up to the glacier was magnificent, with Hardeol (7151m) and Tirsuli (7074m) stunning. Then back down to Ganaghar and up the Pachu valley to our wonderful spacious campsite with Nanda Devi, Nanda Devi East and Latu Dhura as the awesome back drop. Good to see the peaks and passes that Tilman and Shipton had pioneered in the 1930s. The trek back down to Munsiyari was quick, and the final day quite tough, but we were acclimatised and fit by then! So for 10 days we had the mountains to ourselves. No phones or internet. And no people ... just a few families bringing their sheep and goats down for the winter. Magic! PS One of our fellow-trekkers recorded sightings of 74 different bird species.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

There were three: watching large numbers of griffon vultures soaring close by us; a magnificent end-to-end rainbow over the Gori Ganga valley; and appreciating the true scale and ruggedness of the Nanda Devi massif from close up.

What did you think of your group leader?

I'd trekked with Valerie in Ladakh a few years ago and we'd had numerous sightings of snow leopards and filmed a 2 minute video of one. So I assumed going with Valerie to Nanda Devi would also be blessed with good fortune - and that was true. She brings knowledge, experience, patience and humour to any trek. She also had Rajiv and Dhruv as local guides/leaders, who were stars!

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

The trek was classified as 4 (moderate/challenging) - but there's a lot of ascent and descent as you climb down and up side valleys and ravines. So make sure you've had lots of practice up and down rocky tracks. There's nowhere to recharge batteries - so bring spares and/or solar panel. A camera with a good zoom brings the mountains (and birds and moneys) to life.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

The whole trip went remarkably smoothly. I always worry about getting stomach problems on Himalayan treks, but Johnny the Cook and his team were amazing and produced masses of excellent food (including a magnificent Nanda Devi cake) with no side effects!

Nanda Devi and Milan Glacier

A very good trip. Harder than the original trip notes suggested, but the grade has been increased to 5 now which is a better indication of the effort required. You will need to do some fitness training before you go. One member of our team was very unfit and this caused significant problems for our guide and the rest of the group.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

The days spent at Nanda Devi base camp. Amazing views and a very atmospheric location.

What did you think of your group leader?

Rajeev, was an excellent leader. He looked after the group well and had to deal with a very challenging situation when 2 members of the group struggled to keep up ( one became unwell a couple of days in but the other person was unfit and probably should not have joined !).

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

As with all trips of this type, it's a remote area, make sure you're fit and prepared for some level of hardship. If you're not up for it , don't go !!

Is there anything else you would like to add?

An arduous but very enjoyable trek.

This trek is very challenging and not in my opinion moderate. Rajeev our trek guide was professional, friendly, knowledgeable about the area and great company. He led us at our pace which really increased our enjoyment of this remote, stunning locality. His staff were well led, happy and all very keen to enhance our enjoyment. Also Drew, his sidekick was friendly and full of facts about this area as well. Both worked together for our enjoyment and to get the most out of this trek. I would definitely recommend this trek....but remember it is challenging.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

Seeing Nanda Devi and all the peaks, also the stunning scenery.

What did you think of your group leader?

As I have said, Rajeev was friendly, professional and great company.

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

Get fit before you travel.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

A fabulous trek, with great people.

Best ever trek

The superb, unspoilt Himalayan landscape was more than adequate reward for some long days of walking.

What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

Sunrise over Nanda Devi on a virtually cloud-free morning was pretty spectacular ....

What did you think of your group leader?

Superbly led by Valerie Parkinson and the excellent local leaders Rajeev and Dhruv

Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

Get as fit as possible - I was a little apprehensive when I saw the revised trip notes, and made sure I was fit before we left the UK - this meant that I could enjoy the fantastic scenery. The trip notes were a good predictor of the terrain and our training in the Lake District was very good preparation. Poles are essential for the steep descents

Is there anything else you would like to add?

Excellent, varied and plentiful food, as always with Exodus camping trips in India - not one of our group of 13 had any stomach problems at all.